Conquest of mountain peaks or extreme mountaineering

The most dangerous mountain in the world

Mountains have been beckoning man with their greatness and inaccessibility for centuries. Peaks of the steepest peaks in the world have tried to conquer a huge number of climbers and fans of extreme sensations. Unfortunately, not all of them returned home. Some stayed there, in the steep, dangerous mountains, as if giving a sign to others that climbing peaks can be dangerous. Dozens of people die every year climbing some of the world’s most difficult peaks.

Avalanches, rockslides, snowstorms, strong winds, steep mountain slopes and unfavorable weather significantly add to the human challenge of mountain climbing. The human organism without proper training begins to experience difficulties at an altitude of 5,000 meters. Difficulties such as:

  • lack of oxygen;
  • a decrease in adaptation;
  • general malaise;

An even greater challenge is an altitude of 8,000 meters above sea level, where the amount of oxygen decreases significantly, the body is left with about 30% of the required standard, which is extremely dangerous to health. The most dangerous mountains are those where the physiological atmospheric zone ends.

One might think that nature creates barriers to a man on purpose, as if she does not want to be disturbed. But there are not fewer people, surprisingly enough. People gather expeditions from experienced and not very experienced climbers, they go to the peaks with the best equipment. Steep peaks of the world’s most dangerous mountains want to conquer the biggest fans of extreme sports. Such an ascent is dangerous and unpredictable, you never know what it might end up, whether you can return home.

Top 10 most dangerous mountains in the world

  1. Kanchenjunga is the most difficult peak.
  2. Mont Blanc is the mountain of avalanches.
  3. Everest – the world’s most dangerous peak.
  4. Vinson – the highest in Antarctica.
  5. Eiger – the northern wall.
  6. Dhaulagiri – an ogre mountain.
  7. Nanga Parbat – climbing to the test.
  8. Chogori – the ultimate extreme.
  9. Annapurna – ice-covered danger.
  10. Matterhorn – unique and dangerous.

Kanchenjunga – steep and dangerous

The mountain range is located in India and partly in Nepal, is part of the national park of the same name. The height is the third highest in the world, climbers are both afraid of her and want to conquer. The weather here is constantly bad, unsuitable for climbing, constantly occur avalanches. Only 190 people were able to climb to the top, the mortality rate is 22% and, unfortunately, it is only increasing. Kanchejanga is also called the mountain of five treasures, its height is 8,586 meters above sea level.

It was unconquered until 1955, there is still no paved routes, trails. In Nepal, there is even a legend that Kanchenjunga is a female mountain, which kills all women who tried to conquer its peaks. The only woman who was able to climb to the top and come back down was a climber from Britain named Ginette Harrison. Such a peculiar feat was accomplished by her in 1998. But 1.5 years later she died while climbing Mount Dhaulagiri.

Mont Blanc is one of the most popular peaks

In the Western Alps is Mont Blanc, also called the White Mountain. It is part of the Alpine system and is about 5,000 meters high. The first ascent dates back to 1786. There were 2 disasters on Mont Blanc in which 48 and 117 people died, all of them were airplane passengers. Under the mountain there is a tunnel that connects Italy with France, its length is more than 11 kilometers. In 1999, a truck caught fire here, starting a fire, killing the passengers of other cars in the tunnel. The fire burned for about 53 hours, killing 39 people.

Climbers do not consider the peak very dangerous, but still this place breaks records for mortality. Climbing here was carried out about two centuries, as a result of accidents during this period killed several thousand. All because of systematic avalanches, weather conditions not intended for man. Even Mount Everest is far away from such a figure. Next to Mont Blanc there are famous ski resorts:

Everest is high and dangerous.

The shape of the mountain looks like a pyramid with three faces, the steepest is the southern slope. It and its ribs are not held by firn and snow, so they are constantly exposed. Everest is a very attractive destination for climbers all over the world, who try to climb there all year round. It takes about 2 months to conquer it, this period includes the acclimatization phase, setting up camp. On average, a person during an expedition to Everest loses 10-15 kilograms. In the spring because of the lack of monsoons is most favorable to climb, you can try in the fall.

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Other names for the summit are Jomolungma, Shenmufeng, Sagarmatha. Recognized as the highest mountain in the world and the most dangerous to climb. Its altitude is 8,848 meters above sea level. It is the most difficult mountain to climb in the Himalayas, the Mangalur-Himal range. The territories of Nepal and the Tibetan AO occupy the southern summit of Mount Everest, the northern one is in China.

Gradually the number of climbed Everest is growing, so in 2012 climbed Everest made 234 people. Preparation and equipment are very important, Dzhomolungma is a very serious challenge for a person, even for the most experienced climber. The section of the last 300 meters is the most difficult, to overcome it, you have to climb a smooth, very steep rock, constantly covered with dry, loose snow. Most of the dead remain lying in the snow of the mountain, because it is very difficult to evacuate them.

Vinson – not difficult in appearance but a dangerous peak

The mountain is 4,892 meters high and is located in the territories of Antarctica. Among climbers in general it is not considered the most difficult in the world, but it is extremely difficult to climb the Vinson Massif. You can easily get lost in a snowstorm, freeze to death.

Located in the west of the South Pole, it is the highest point of the Ellsworth Mountains. One of the most difficult mountains stretches for 20 km, all the approaches to it are solid glaciers, in some places their thickness is 4 000 m.

Eiger – the dangerous northern wall

Despite being only 3,962 m high, this peak is recognized as one of the most dangerous, difficult peaks in the world. The deadly wall, which stretches upward for 2 km, is the most dangerous part. Systematically blocks of ice come off Eiger and slide down. In 1938 Eiger was conquered for the first time.

The route is very difficult because of the strong altitude difference and unstable weather. Eiger was nicknamed the cannibal, 64 people died here in all the years of climbing.

Dhaulagiri – the white peak of the world

This multi-peaked giant is 8,167 meters high, and people have nicknamed it the man-eating mountain because 16% of all those who have tried to conquer Dhaugalgiri have died here. The reason for this is strong, frequent avalanches. The southern side of the mountain is generally impregnable, not suitable for climbing. But this does not stop desperate extreme climbers. Dhaulagiri is the world’s seventh highest eight-thousander.

Nanga Parbat – the bare mountain.

It is the highest mountain slope in the world, located in the northwest of the Himalayas, its height is 8,126 meters. There is a very narrow ridge on the south side of the 4,600-meter high mountain, you have to traverse it to get to the top of the mountain. Mountain climber Hermann Buhl Nanga Parbat was conquered for the first time in 1953. He spent 40 hours climbing without needing extra oxygen or an ice axe.

Another 263 people climbed one of the world’s most difficult mountains after him, of whom 64 died. The mortality rate was 21%, but is gradually declining. Not for nothing was this difficult peak nicknamed the killer mountain, the absorber of man. It was Parbat that ranked first in terms of deaths before Everest.

Chogori is technically difficult.

The world’s second highest mountain peak is also nicknamed K2. This world’s eight-thousandth peak is the most northerly of all. It is located on the border of Pakistan and China, in the Baltoro range, the Karakoram mountain system, northwest of the Himalayas. Technically it is very difficult to climb here, even more difficult than Everest. Up to 2008, 284 people had climbed K2; 66 of them died, the mortality rate was 25%. All who climbed Chogori in winter, could not reach their goal.

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Annapurna – the majestic goddess of the Himalayas

The name translates from Sanskrit as “goddess of fertility.” Located in Nepal, this difficult to climb, steep mountain. Annapurna is part of the Main Himalayan Range from the southern spur. The entire mountain range has 13 peaks above 7,000 m and 16 peaks above 6,000 m. An American mountaineer described this peak as: solid danger, completely covered with ice.

The most dangerous of all the eight-thousanders, the mortality rate of climbers here until 2012 was 32%, today it has slightly decreased.

Annapurna was the first mountain higher than 8,000 meters, where man first climbed. An expedition of two men from France succeeded in 1950. To come down, they spent 14 days, and as a result of severe frostbite they lost all their toes, one frostbitten hands. Their ascent is recognized as one of the greatest achievements in the history of world mountaineering.

The Matterhorn is one of the most dangerous

Of all the peaks in the Alps, this one is the most difficult. The northern slope of the Matterhorn is recognized as impregnable, the ascent is extremely difficult. Climbing is very difficult and dangerous because of frequent snowfalls, avalanches and rockfalls. In 1865 two groups were lucky enough to climb the peak, but one of them died because the rope broke on the way down.

The mountain is popular for its unique shape, resembling a horn that grows straight out of the valley. The Matterhorn is located on the border of Italy and Switzerland, in the Alpine scenic area, the Pennine Alps. People’s fear of the summit, a very difficult technical climbing prevented the mountain from being conquered for a long time. Among the major alpine peaks, it was one of the last that man was able to conquer. Today it is a popular destination for climbers, every year thousands of people try to reach the summit. The most popular route is over the ridge of Hernli from the side of Zermatt. Another route is along the ridge of Lyon. The other walls and ridges people dare to conquer rarely because of the high complexity.

Climbing for beginners in Russia

Since ancient times, man has tried to conquer the highest mountains on the planet. And while in the past such expeditions were extremely dangerous venture, in recent years with the development of modern means of communication and equipment, they have become available to most tourists. However, until now, the conquest of the mountains above 4500-5000 meters remains a dangerous activity. Therefore, for those who are new to mountaineering special education and training programs have been invented. This article is about how to properly prepare and choose a peak for the first ascent, what to take with you and how to overcome all the difficulties along the way.

How to prepare for the first ascent?

Is it necessary to train before the ascent? Of course you do! If you are in good physical shape and you are engaged in sports all the time it will be easier for you. If you may hardly be called an athlete but you are determined to conquer the highest point of Europe or the main Altai Mountain at any cost, do not despair. In any case, the first rule of training for beginners is constant and hard workout. Believe me, all the effort expended will be more than repaid at the altitude. In addition, it would be a shame if you do not reach just a little bit to the desired mark, because the last meters will run out of strength. So make a training schedule and don’t break it!

When should I start training? If you are a sporty person in principle, it will be enough to start training 3 months before the X date. If your physical condition leaves much to be desired and you do not remember the last time you were in a fitness club or went for a jog, and to climb a couple of floors on the stairs is not possible without shortness of breath, then you may need more time to prepare. But once again, it’s all about desire!

What training will help in preparation for the ascent? Before leaving for the conquest of the mountain, you should not only tidy up your physical form, but also train your endurance and pump the respiratory and cardiovascular systems. It is on them have the maximum load at altitude. Therefore, because of the lack of training you can get off halfway. To avoid this, do swimming, running, biking, and cardio exercises. Even better if you have already tried hiking and trekking in the mountains and know what it is.

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How should the training take place? First of all, training should be constant, effective and intensive. In addition, the load should gradually increase. In the case of running, it is obligatory to do it with the heart rate in mind. Properly planned running will not only allow you to lose weight, but also strengthen the heart muscle. Running with a high heart rate will allow your body to get used to a lack of oxygen, something you are sure to encounter in the mountains. To strengthen your fitness and increase your endurance, also run uphill or climb stairs at a fast pace. Well, do not forget to rest a week before the trip.

Difficulties in the preparation and in the process of climbing

Lack of motivation. We all know that in order to finish the job you need the right motivation. The best way to motivate the beginners is to have already purchased a tour with a set date of the trip. Another way, tested on myself, is public preparation for climbing the mountain. For example, you can announce to your friends, colleagues and relatives in social networks that in a certain period of time you will make an ascent to the chosen peak. That’s what our colleague Leonid Levdanov did, launching the hashtag #100daysdoelbrus on Instagram. It will be difficult to backtrack in such a case.

Lack of physical preparation. How do you know that you are ready for the ascent and can cope with the planned load? Can you climb the stairs to the 15th floor at a fast pace? And do it 3-4 times in a row? How about running a 10 km cross-country race? If all of these questions, you answered affirmatively, then feel free to pack your backpack and go towards the desired peaks. But remember that good physical training is a must but not a guarantee of success in mountaineering!

Mountain sickness and ill health caused by it. Mountain sickness is the scourge of almost all mountaineering beginners. The thin air at altitude leads to a lack of oxygen and hypoxia. At some point you begin to feel general malaise, headaches and nausea, your heartbeat is disturbed, your appetite decreases and you lose sleep. For a long time, many mountaineers suffered from mountain sickness. Now, if you acclimatize to altitude correctly and take medication for headaches, the manifestation of alpine sickness can be reduced to a minimum!

How to properly acclimatize at altitude?

No matter how well prepared you are, improper acclimatization can negate all efforts and make you turn off the trail prematurely. That’s why you need to get used to the thin air at altitude before you start climbing the mountain. You would not believe it, but nowadays the most widespread type of acclimatization “saw-tooth” was developed only in the 1930s! Our compatriots had done it during their expedition to Lenin Peak – the famous peak on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Later, the method they discovered was successfully tested in the Tien Shan and the Himalayas and became widely used in mountaineering.

Before that, climbers either arrived and immediately stormed the heights, often at the cost of their own lives, or slowly climbed to different heights and sat on them for a long time in order to finally get used to the thin air. All modern ascents use a faster and more effective method of acclimatization – “saw-tooth”. It consists of ascending to a higher altitude during the day and then coming back down for the night. Every time the altitude increases and accordingly, the place for overnight stay becomes higher and higher. So you gradually get closer to the summit. And eventually you will be able to climb the mountain without any harm to your health!

Clothing and gear for the expedition

So after good physical training and good acclimatization the third important condition for the successful conquest of the summit is the right choice of clothes and equipment. The outfit should be comfortable, comfortable and shouldn’t hinder you from moving, stir and chafe. At the same time you don’t have to buy all the necessary equipment for climbing the mountain at once. You can rent most of it on the spot!

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What do you need to take with you on your expedition from your personal belongings:

  • A couple of sets of thermal underwear and a quick-drying fleece suit;
  • waterproof pants and a jacket made of membrane fabric, a warm down jacket;
  • socks, mittens and gloves, a hat, and a bandana or balaclava;
  • double mountaineering boots and trekking boots for climbing to low altitudes;
  • an assault backpack of 50-60 liters;
  • a sleeping bag, depending on the weather conditions and season;
  • sunglasses or ski mask-glasses, sunscreen with a high SPF;
  • a small first-aid kit, a flashlight, a thermos, and a good mood!

What climbing equipment you can rent on the spot:

  • crampons and ice axes;
  • trekking poles:
  • carabiners and harnesses with whiskers insurance;
  • avalanche gear;
  • tents, burners, woks and much more.

For detailed information on how a beginner should choose the right mountaineering clothing and equipment, what brands, materials and models to give preference and what to pay attention to when buying, read the article written by our partners – “Sport-Marathon” online store. By the way, for those who go with us to conquer the peaks of the mountains, we provide club discount cards of this store. And do not forget to buy special medical insurance – our managers can help you to choose and buy it.

The best places for climbing in Russia

On the vast territory of Russia there are hundreds of places for mountain trekking and hiking – Khibiny on the Kola Peninsula, Sayany in Siberia, the Urals, the volcanoes of Kamchatka and, of course, Altai and the Caucasus. But if you want to make the real, valuable in mountaineering ascents, then go to one of the most famous peaks of Russia – Elbrus and Belukha in Altai!

Let’s assume that you have already decided which first peak you want to conquer. Undoubtedly, the first time you are going to such heights, you should go only in an organized group with professional guides and experienced instructors. Otherwise you will have all chances to stay on the mountain. What you should pay attention to when choosing a tour:

  • The route and chosen side to climb – make sure that they are suitable for beginners and do not require significant experience in mountaineering.
  • duration of the route – is there enough time for acclimatization and is it provided at all?
  • number of participants and group composition – there should be at least one guide for every 3-4 tourists.

By the way, in 2010, Russian mountaineers got their own badge of honor – “Snow Leopard of Russia”. It is awarded to those who have conquered the 10 highest mountains of the country. Both Elbrus and Belukha are included in this list! Moreover, Elbrus as the highest point of Europe, is also included in the list of “Seven peaks of the world” where the highest mountain of each continent is included. So the conquest of Elbrus is highly valued not only in our country, but all over the world.

Climbing Elbrus for beginners

Elbrus is one of the most popular mountains in the world for climbing. All because it is not only considered the highest point in Europe and Russia, but also suitable for beginners. And for beginner climbers, the best time for climbing is summer. It is warmer, there is less snow and the weather is more merciful. However, in case of the 5,000m peaks “warmer” means that the temperature at the altitude may fall only to -15°C and not to -40°C as it used to be during the winter months.

If you are going to the mountains for the first time, make sure that you will climb Elbrus from the south – this route is considered the easiest. Also make sure that the tour program provides enough days for acclimatization. The ideal length of the route for beginners is 9 days, like in our expedition “At the Top of Russia”. You are invited to make this trip to the highest mountain of the country!

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What is included in the price of our expedition to the West top of Elbrus (5642 meters above the sea level):

  • transfer from Mineralnye Vody to the beginning of the route and back at the end of the route;
  • accommodation in hotels and mountain shelters on the slopes of Mount Elbrus;
  • three meals a day;
  • services of guides and instructors, training classes with mountaineering equipment for beginners;
  • walks along the most beautiful natural sights in the vicinity – the rocks of Pastukhov and Maiden’s Spits waterfall;
  • Reserve day for the conquest of the summit in case of bad weather.

On your own, you will only need to buy tickets to Mineralnye Vody, and pay for the rental of individual climbing or hiking equipment on the spot. Are you nervous before the trip? Read the report of our colleague Irina Milintsova, who conquered the Western Peak of Elbrus several years ago as a beginner in mountaineering. From it you will learn why Elbrus can “not let” the climbers and why they take a chocolate bar in the hike.

Climbing Elbrus in a Week

Have you climbed Elbrus with us before? Or maybe you have climbed other mountains in Russia and in the world? Then we offer you a more difficult expedition “Above the Clouds” with the conquest of Mount Elbrus in seven days! We take on this trip only tourists with mountaineering experience. Acclimatization at altitude will take only three days as part of the trip. So it is important for us that expedition participants understand what to expect, know how to use all the necessary equipment and be accustomed to thin air.

As in the case with the 9-day route, we will climb from the south to the West summit. On the way we will pass the wonderful places – Maiden Spits waterfall, observatory of Russian Academy of Sciences and rocks of Pastukhov, we will admire the spectacular views of the Caucasus mountains and we will meet the dawn on our way to the summit. You can join this climbing tour starting from the first May holidays.

The price of the ascent includes instruction and accompaniment of the group by the guides-instructors, accommodation, full meals, general mountaineering equipment. You will need to take only personal equipment, appropriate clothing and medical insurance. You’ll also need to get to Mineralnye Vody, where we’ll pick you up and deliver you to the beginning of your trip.

To climb Belukha in Altai.

Of course, to conquer Elbrus dream of all, without exception, climbers. But for travelers is no less valuable and Altai Belukha. This is because the main summit of Altai and the mountain region itself is considered one of the biggest places of power in Russia. Besides our 12 days tour “In the heart of Altai” includes trekking on the most beautiful places around Belukha, rafting and glacier trekking.

The top point of Belukha is located at an altitude of 4509 meters above sea level, which is 1000 meters lower than Elbrus. However, this does not mean that climbing here will be much easier. In this case, tourists also need good physical training and experience in mountain climbing is desirable. Height difference at some parts of the route reaches 1000 meters, in addition, the expedition participants will have to carry necessary equipment and food stock. The good news: some tents and food will be waiting for you at the campsites.

One of the advantages of this route is active and interesting program even for those beginners who due to health reasons do not continue climbing the mountain. You can always stay at the Ak-Kem base and go on radial routes with a guide. Besides during the tour you will not only test your strength and stamina but get useful skills of mountaineering. Part of the route will pass through the glacier. That’s why before the trip our instructors will teach you the necessary techniques for successful passing of the glacier. Anyway you will get a lot of positive emotions from this trip!

Need more ideas for adventurous journeys? Check out 150 more tours of Russia. If you need help in making your choice, please call +7 (495) 104-64-36 or email

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