Four days in Cornwall – a trip to the ‘ends of the earth’
Cornwall’s coat of arms bell is a memory of an unforgettable trip to the far southwest of England. I wanted to tell it at length, but the pace of our move through English towns is so fast that for now I have ventured to publish only the letter I wrote to my children on my return and then sent to friends with slight modifications. I regret that we did not bring bells from all the places we went. But they are, and so a sequel is sure to follow.
“The End of the Earth,” “Mousehole,” a town of smugglers and pirates, the oldest Turk’s Head pub, a fishing village, a fashionable resort, a haven of inspiration for many artists (our favorite Turner, among others), a pier, where Charles Darwin arrived from his famous voyage on the Beagle, the church named for the executed King of England, the bell from the old school church, and the gallery of Rodney Peppe (a new name!), the master of mechanical toys and illustrator of children’s books. ).
And, finally, Mount St. Michael, whose abbey was visited by an endless stream of pilgrims.
And then there was Cornish-style tea with cream (Seryozha laughed outright when I spread butter and blackberry jam on the rolls, part of the “program” of regular tea with milk). Except that he didn’t take into account the richness of the Cornish cream and the fragrance of the jam, infused with the scent of Cornish herbs, neighboring blackberries.
Ale and Cornish honey beer.
Cornish pies with all sorts of fillings (we took some with lamb, potatoes, onions, spices) in the thinnest crispy puff pastry (if you’re lucky with the chef or the establishment where you buy – we’re 50/50).
We were indifferent to the seafood assortment, maybe just the anchovies and crab salad, but shrimp are still shrimp in Montreal.
And finally, the Cornish fish pie. Oh, this is really good. I’ll withhold the recipe for now, I don’t really know myself, I assume the contents – but you have to try it out. Eaten three times: the first time – were unexpectedly pleased, the second time – satisfied, the third time – admired and became fans forever.
There is a great variety of flowers. I do not know the names of most of them, and I saw many of them for the first time. I was admired by blue, blue, lilac, pink hydrangeas – hundreds of bushes!
For some reason there are palm trees.
All kinds of bushes and shrubs, blooming everywhere and clinging to anything: tree branches, rocks, wires, roofs. Sometimes you can marvel – how is it possible that a bush of daisies survives among two rocks on a steep cliff.
But most of all you are amazed when the giant crowns of hundred-year-old trees intertwine over the narrow road and form a bizarre green corridor, through which the double-decker buses literally make their way. Good if the buses are roofed, but there are also open buses where passengers squeeze their heads in terror and their hats and caps fly off.
And finally, English roses. They are beauties! The colors and shades can’t be counted. Too bad they were already in bloom in those days.
And why am I always talking about food and flowers? When the main thing here is the water element. The first thing we saw was the English Channel (no, we’re in England – it’s more correct – the English Channel; our sweet companions were wincing when we exclaimed: “La Manche!”) And in “Lands End” we saw the open ocean – the Atlantic. As we shuttled between Cornish villages, we found ourselves on the ocean, then on the strait. And wandered, suddenly realizing that this was the ends of the earth.
The ebb and flow of the tides amazed us. In the evening – boulders, covered with wet greenery, shells, seaweed. In the morning – two and a half miles along the beach to Mount St. Michael (a bright local point of interest) – waves, one after another with a noise rolls on the shore to the road. And get to the mountain-island had to take a boat. It had not passed 2 hours, while climbing the path of pilgrims to the tops of the castle, as from the balcony we saw that people are already stomping from the former abbey to the village of Morazion on the red-gray stone lined path.
And at St. Ives? Upon our arrival, we saw: everything that should have been swimming was resting lazily on the sandy-silty bottom, and the people were splashing far from shore in the clear turquoise-blue water. And then – one last parting glance at the harbor – the water returned and came up to the stone parapet and lifted all the contents. The boats are bobbing merrily on the faint wave, and the boys are diving(!) headlong down the high ladder. Only a little while ago there was sand, and now there is water. It’s deep, for diving!
And the color of the water? Not a day, not an hour, that it stays the same. I am not an artist, I can not list all the colors and shades. But it is not for nothing that romantic Turner came here (there are about ten paintings of this place). His palette was able to reproduce all the variability of colors of the water element.
I will notice only some transitions of color: from various shades of gray to blue, from purple to turquoise, from azure-blue to emerald green. And then there was water – pink, lilac, orange, and black.
And the color of the cows? Oh, the cows were something! All the way, and we drove to Cornwall for a long time, six and a half hours. Not to say that a lot of mileage – just stopped often, and for Bath even changed the direction of the train: I was glad, because we had seats not in the direction of travel.
But back to the cows. There were a great many of them in the green and lettuce fields. They were black and white in spots, then red (did someone dye henna?), brown, brown. And so gigantic with big udders swollen with milk. And the bulls? And there were calves. Some were munching lazily, others were watching our train with googly eyes (they were so close to the track that they had a close-up view). In the evening (on our way back), they were lounging so picturesquely in the dark green fields – you could tell they were tired after the day. And really – so much to chew on!
And there were beautiful horses, also multicolored. Horses in love, galloping horses, little colts clinging to their mothers. And suddenly – a wild doe, bouncing among the sprawling ferns. Followed by a herd of llamas! Mother llamas and baby llamas. They were so big, fat and tall! And a turkey (or turkeys) blocked our way. The drivers had to get out of the car – chased, chased. Didn’t get out of the way – created a traffic jam!
And finally, the sheep. Cute little darlings – pale, milky gray, so-so fluffy, and some with black and brown ears! The only thing missing were pink and red ribbons and bell bows around their necks. But I kept thinking about barbecue when I was looking at them. I was ashamed. Then I realized that I was hungry and asked Sergey to get a cheese sandwich! A sheep’s cheese sandwich!
To the right of the old town hall is the Lutheran Church, an eclectic building with Renaissance, Classicist and Romanesque elements, built in 1889.
It was rebuilt from a small church of 1828, which no longer accommodates the Lutheran congregation. In the corners it is surrounded by four conical towers arranged around a massive dome. It is an imposing and beautiful building.
Address: Piotrkowska 2, 91-415.
Maurica Poznański Palace
An eclectic nineteenth century palace with elements of the Italian Renaissance. The house is located on the corner of Węcka Street and Gdańska Street. It is now the seat of the Łódź Museum of Art. It is not only classical painting (only a quarter of the museum is devoted to it), but also impressionism, cubism, dadaism, abstractionism and art installations of modern Polish artists.
Opening hours: Tues. Sun. 11-19.
Cost to visit: 10 to 15 PLN depending on the exhibition.
Michał Kipper’s mansion
Not far from Maurica Palace, on Gdańska street there is an Art Nouveau style late 19th century manor house decorated with images of Christ, cupids and even Satan. Its owner, the industrialist Michael Kipper, was a pious man. This is reflected in the architecture of the building.
The address is Gdańska 42, 90-001.
Leopold Kindermann Villa
One of the best examples of Art Nouveau in Poland. It was built in 1901 at the request of Leopold Kindermann, a merchant. The architect was Gustav Landau-Hutenger – the author of many villas in Lodz. The construction took 3 years, which is quite a lot for such a small building. But looking at its exterior, you can understand why it took so long. Most of the time was spent decorating the facade.
The stone house was decorated with floral carvings that show apples, chestnut leaves, poppies and roses. For this, the mansion was given the second name “the house of half apples.”
It is noteworthy that there are no similar windows on the walls. They all have different shapes. Some of the windows are decorated with stained glass and forged decorative bars.
Address: Wólczańska 31, 90-001.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
This is an Orthodox cathedral built in 1884 on the order of the Imperial Governor of Łódź – Ivan Kahanov. The building, made in the Russian-Byzantine style accommodates up to a thousand parishioners. The interior is decorated with rich decorations with lots of stucco and stained-glass windows on religious themes.
Address: Jana Kilińskiego 56, 90-118.
The Church of St. Olga
Nearby the cathedral is the neoclassical St. Olga’s Orthodox Church built in 1896.
Address: Grzegorza Piramowicza 12, 90-001.
Florian Jarisch Manor
A modernist villa built in early 1902 for a wealthy local businessman. The building combines Baroque and Renaissance styles. Inside, it is decorated with floral stucco ornaments and stained glass windows.
There is also preserved furniture and paintings on the walls of the century ago. Anyone can see them. You don’t need to pay any money to enter since the villa is a social service center.
Address: QF64+2V Lodz, Poland.
Culture and Technology Center EU-1
The EU-1 is a former 19th-century thermal power plant converted into an ultra-modern educational center. It combines industrial architecture with glass additions of steel, glass, and concrete. An extremely aesthetic combination. Inside are offices, hotels, a multimedia planetarium and a number of science art installations and cognitive laboratories:
Energy Recycling . Historical exhibits and computer games about energy production technology.
And why did the bird move its golden crown to the side? Evidence that the Cornish (also called Cornish) had repeatedly resisted the conquerors? Alas, the struggle was unsuccessful – few people speak the Cornish language now.
And this is the first time I’ve seen such a grim flag – black (horror!) with a white cross (smuggling past?). I feel something uncomfortable with such a flag, and therefore the bell with it only took a picture, not bought.
And also – the title Duke of Cornwall is held by the eldest son of a British monarch. The tradition began in 1337 by King Edward III, passing his own title to his eldest son Edward, nicknamed the Black Prince.
Now, understandably, the title is held by Prince Charles. He received it at the age of four, when his mother Elizabeth II was crowned to the throne. Charles was officially installed as Duke in 1973.
But here’s what made me laugh. The prince received: a pair of white gloves, a pair of greyhounds, a pound of pepper and cumin each, a crossbow, a hundred specially minted shillings, wood to make a fire and a harpoon to catch salmon!
You’ve got to hand it to Prince Charles – he’s fighting to preserve Cornwall’s nature. And Seeley Island (that’s where to go!) is an ecological paradise.
And yet, where have we been?
It’s southwest Cornwall – Penzance, Lands End, St. Ives, St. Michael, Morazion, Falmouth, Newlyn, Mousehall and more passing through some interesting townships by bus. And from the train window we saw the majestic Truro Cathedral (capital of Cornwall) and Plymouth, a huge harbor with boats, yachts and warships.
Cornwall, because of the Gulf Stream, is the “Crimea” for England. And because palm trees, 150 eschatnyh beaches and warm (I did not risk a swim, although the swimsuit was taken) water. Yes, I was afraid because of his leg – pestering, in some places the force did not go. Well here the distance is written in miles. Illusion that passed a little, but in kilometers – you stomp and stomp!
And another thing – although Cornwall is festooned on tourist maps with images of umbrellas marking the beaches, it is in fact open to all winds and storms. It bakes hard, but it takes a cloud to cover the sun and you pull on your jacket.
The beauty of Cornwall is anything but serene, with granite cliffs rising behind sandy beaches and green pastures flanked by sturdy walls of boulders. And despite the cheerful windows with freshly painted white frames and frivolous curtains, the houses look like impregnable fortresses. They were built by their great-great-great-grandfathers, as they say, for the ages.
Situated in the south west of England, Cornwall offers an incredible variety of natural attractions and a unique landscape. From miles of secluded sandy beaches with crystal clear waters to wild rocky landscapes and romantic, undiscovered castle ruins, here you’ll find everything your heart desires.
Enjoy the beauty of the peninsula, explore popular Cornish landmarks such as the westernmost and southernmost point in England, and hike to famous Lizard Point for spectacular views of dramatic cliffs, rugged coastline, romantic coves and green hillside valleys.
Let Cornwall take you back to the sagas and legends of bygone days. Walk in the footsteps of the Paleolithic, Celts and Romans.
Explore stone circles, burial mounds, medieval castles, settlements such as Mount St. Michael, or famous sites such as Tintagel Castle, where legend has it that King Arthur was born. Cornwall is becoming more and more popular with travelers for a reason.
Get lost in the mesmerizing scenery of the Lost Gardens of Heligan, plunge into the cool waters sailing and surfing, explore the fabulous fishing villages and relax on the romantic beaches at St. Ives. Another popular reason is that Cornwall is one of the original filming locations of Rosamund Pilcher.
Here we show you the most popular attractions you shouldn’t miss.
High above the cliffs, with stunning views of Cornwall’s north coast, is Tintagel Castle. Opposite the village of Tintagel in north Cornwall are the remains of a 13th-century fortress. The ruins, preserved to this day, look as if they have been here since the beginning of time and as if embedded in the rocks.
Tintagel is one of those places where stories are written and legends are created. A powerful place with an imposing aura. According to legends, the fortress was the birthplace of King Arthur. Archaeologists have not yet been able to find any evidence of this, but the legend continues to exist.
Nearby is a quaint little church of St. Materianas with a very old cemetery. The beach by the castle is also open to visitors and pedestrians and is well worth a visit.
As the name suggests, this corner of England is away from modern life and regional traditions, Land’s End is where Cornwall meets the sea. Come here and you’ll find yourself on the westernmost tip of England, surrounded by green countryside and breathtaking nature. Dramatic cliffs and spectacular views complete the picture.
Land’s End is a popular starting or ending point for a Cornwall itinerary.
St. Michaels Mountain.
Located off the coast of Cornwall, Mount St. Michael, or as it is called in Cornish, “Karrek Loos yn Koos,” which means nothing less than “gray rock in the woods.” It is one of Cornwall’s landmarks.
The weather here, as throughout England, is gloomy, and you can only vaguely make out the outline of Mount St. Michael. The whole island looks ancient because of the overcast fog and vaguely distinguishable buildings.
There is a castle and a historic village on the island that resemble Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy, France, but Mount Saint Michael is much smaller. At high tide, the island seems infinitely distant and inaccessible, though it lies only a few hundred meters from the coast of Marazion, and at low tide it is easily reached by granite paving.
The castle on Mount St. Michael grew out of a church around the 12th century and was a popular destination for pilgrims. Today, the castle and chapel are privately owned, though tours and visits are arranged for travelers.
Tour the romantically furnished castle, stroll through the beautiful tropical garden, and explore the collection of artifacts from the past. The castle walls offer a panoramic view of the entire coastline.
In the middle of the desert, on 50 acres of land near St. Blaisy’s, 2 huge domes rise out of the ground. They are, rather, two huge greenhouses, each consisting of four intersecting domes.
The Eden Project was created here in 2001 from a former clay pit as part of the British Millennium Projects. It houses two million plants in so-called biomes with different climate zones.
The Eden Project is the world’s largest indoor rainforest, a botanical garden with superior features, and at first glance the imposing structure looks like something from another world. Visitors can also admire the interior of the domes from above through connected observation decks.
Discover unusual tropical and exotic plants and learn more about their origins and history. There is also a traditional Malaysian hut with a vegetable garden and waterfall.
In the Mediterranean biome, you’ll find hot, dry climates, colorful plants and fruits from the Mediterranean region, California and South Africa, as well as lupines, olives and grapes. In addition to the spectacular plant life, you’ll gain endless knowledge about evolution, climate change, natural resources and our ecosystems. You can also visit the many art exhibits and concerts that take place outdoors.